This specification is NOT an instant quick fix ‘new lawn’ and requires time, effort and patience but is environmentally more responsible, ideal for lower budget schemes or for areas where the replacement of a lawn is not possible, for example within in a no dig garden.

Lawn Reconditioning & Regeneration Specification

Purpose

Lawn reconditioning is a practical method of rejuvenating an existing lawn that has become thin, compacted, uneven or affected by moss and thatch.

It retains the existing grass and improves the condition of the soil without excavating or rotovating the area. This makes it suitable for cost conscious projects and gardens where digging could damage established tree roots or buried services.

This is a corrective treatment for an existing lawn. It is not an annual lawn maintenance plan.

Suitability

Reconditioning is appropriate where:

1. A reasonable proportion of the existing grass remains healthy.
2. The surface is compacted or slow draining.
3. The lawn contains moss, thatch or small bare areas.
4. The surface requires minor levelling.
5. Rotovation or excavation is not desirable.
6. Tree roots, access restrictions or budget prevent complete lawn replacement.

Timing

The preferred periods for carrying out the work are:

1. March to April, once the soil has warmed and grass is actively growing.
2. Late August to early October, while the soil remains warm and natural rainfall is more likely.

Late summer and early autumn generally provide the best conditions for seed germination.

Work should not be undertaken when the soil is frozen, waterlogged or excessively dry. Avoid sowing immediately before periods of hot or dry weather unless reliable irrigation is available.

1 | Preparation

1. After the removal of all stones and debris, mow the existing lawn to approximately 25 to 30 mm. Collect and remove all grass cuttings.
2. Rake the entire area thoroughly using a spring tine lawn rake. Remove leaves, twigs, loose moss, dead grass, stones and other debris.
3. Identify and mark irrigation pipes, lighting cables, drainage covers and other buried services before aeration begins.
4. Remove isolated perennial weeds by hand, taking out as much of the root as possible. Any hollows created should be filled with suitable screened topsoil.
5. Chemical weed treatment is not included within this standard specification. Where a selective lawn treatment has previously been used, follow the manufacturer’s required interval before sowing grass seed.
6. Record any significant depressions, raised areas or persistent wet patches. Lawn reconditioning will correct minor surface irregularities but will not resolve major drainage or level problems.

2 | Scarification

1. Scarify the lawn using a hand scarifier, spring tine rake or powered lawn scarifier.
2. Work in one direction initially. A second pass may be completed at approximately 90 degrees where the lawn contains a significant build up of moss or thatch.
3. Set the equipment to remove moss, dead grass and surface thatch without cultivating the soil or destroying the remaining grass plants.
4. Do not set scarifying blades deeply below soil level.
5. Collect and remove all loosened material after each pass.
6. The lawn may appear noticeably thinner following scarification. This is expected and creates the space required for new grass seed to establish.

3 | Aeration

1. Aerate compacted areas using hollow tines wherever ground conditions and tree roots allow.
2. Aeration holes should normally be approximately 75 to 100 mm deep and spaced at approximately 100 to 150 mm centres.
3. Make additional passes across areas of severe compaction, gateways, regular walking routes and the ground beneath garden furniture.
4. Remove hollow tine cores where the extracted soil is heavily compacted, poor quality or predominantly clay.
5. Do not use a rotovator or other cultivating equipment as part of this process.

Areas containing tree roots

Where the lawn is within the rooting area of a retained tree:

1. Use hand tools or lightweight equipment.
2. Avoid hollow tining where substantial surface roots are present.
3. Use shallow solid tining where appropriate, stopping immediately if resistance from woody roots is encountered.
4. Do not cut, tear or deliberately remove tree roots.
5. Do not raise the soil level substantially around the base of a tree.

4 | Minor Surface Repairs

1. Gently loosen the surface of individual bare patches using a hand fork.
2. Fill shallow hollows using good quality screened topsoil.
3. Do not apply more than approximately 10 to 15 mm of material to an existing grassed surface in a single application unless a ‘repair’ is to occur (a repair is considered necessary when the level of the lawn requires raising more than 15mm).
4. Larger depressions should be corrected in stages over a number of years or treated as a separate repair. Deeply burying the existing grass will cause it to die.
5. Firm repaired areas lightly to reduce settlement while avoiding further compaction.

A note on repairs. Repairs are suitable where large weeds have been removed, edges of lawns have been damaged and for areas requiring build up.  The addition of topsoil (up to 100mm in depth) can be made following the scarification and aeration process and should be rolled or ‘walked’ in layers to prevent excessive settling.

5 | Top Dressing

1. Apply a clean, friable and screened lawn top dressing that is compatible with the existing soil such as Rowlawn Lawn Topdressing (in bulk bags) or Westland Lawn & Turf Dressing (in 25L bags).
2. The material should be free from perennial weeds, roots, rubble, large stones and contaminants.
3. Compost should not be used as the sole top dressing material because it can settle unevenly and may introduce excessive organic matter.
4. Sand should not be added as a default treatment. The grading and composition must be suitable for the existing soil to avoid creating incompatible layers.
5. Spread the top dressing evenly to an average depth of approximately 5 to 10 mm.
6. Work the material into aeration holes and between the grass plants using a landscape rake or stiff brush.
7. The tips of the existing grass must remain visible. Do not bury the lawn beneath the dressing.

6 | Seed Selection and Sowing

1. Select a grass seed mixture appropriate to the site conditions and intended use of the lawn.
2. Consider sunlight, shade, soil moisture, anticipated wear and the intended mowing height.
3. Shade tolerant seed should be used beneath trees and beside buildings. Hard wearing mixtures should be used where children, pets or regular foot traffic are expected.
4. Sow at the supplier’s recommended overseeding rate. This will normally be approximately 20 to 35 g per m², depending on the mixture and condition of the lawn.
5. Divide the seed into two equal quantities. Sow the first quantity in one direction and the second at approximately 90 degrees to provide even coverage.
6. Apply additional seed to bare or particularly thin areas.
7. Lightly rake the surface so that the seed makes direct contact with the soil. Seed should be covered by no more than approximately 3 to 5 mm of fine soil.
8. Lightly tread or roll the surface to secure the seed without compacting the ground.

7 | Feeding

1. Where required, apply a proprietary pre seed or new lawn fertiliser at the manufacturer’s stated rate.
2. Distribute the fertiliser evenly. Do not allow it to accumulate in piles or overlap heavily.
3. Do not use a high nitrogen general lawn feed on newly sown areas.
4. Unless the selected product states otherwise, do not apply further fertiliser until the new grass has germinated and has been mown at least twice.
5. Fertiliser must not be applied during very dry conditions unless the area can be watered thoroughly.

8 | Watering and Protection

1. Water the lawn immediately after sowing using a fine spray or sprinkler.
2. Keep the upper surface of the soil consistently moist during germination. It should not be allowed to dry out completely.
3. Avoid excessive watering, puddling and surface runoff, which can wash seed into hollows.
4. Once germination is established, gradually reduce the frequency of watering while increasing the amount applied. This encourages deeper root growth.
5. Restrict walking, play, pets and garden furniture until the new grass is sufficiently established.
6. Germination may take between 7 and 21 days depending on the grass mixture, temperature and moisture levels.

9 | First Cut and Establishment

1. Carry out the first cut when the new grass reaches approximately 75 to 100 mm in height.
2. Ensure the mower blades are clean and sharp.
3. Remove no more than one third of the grass height during any single cut.
4. The first cut should leave the grass approximately 50 to 60 mm high.
5. Reduce the mowing height gradually over subsequent cuts. Do not immediately mow the lawn to its final intended height.
6. Collect the first few rounds of cuttings to prevent them smothering young grass.
7. Inspect the lawn after approximately four to six weeks. Lightly rake and reseed any areas where germination has been poor.

10 | Completion Standard

Once established, the lawn should:

1. Have reasonably even grass coverage across the treated area.
2. Be securely rooted and capable of withstanding light foot traffic.
3. Be free from loose stones, scarification debris and visible accumulations of top dressing.
4. Have no significant untreated bare areas.
5. Retain the original general levels and character of the lawn unless separate levelling works have been specified.

A follow up inspection should be completed during the next suitable growing period. Localised aeration, light scarification, limited top dressing or additional seed may be repeated where the condition of the lawn requires it.

Lawn Care Guide

Click here for our lawn care guide | The Bestall way to your best ever lawn.

Additional Notes

This method is only suitable for areas of existing lawn.

Drainage is key to the success of the lawn.

Rotovating is NOT permitted using this method.

The addition of top soil to the existing lawn surface will not fix underlying or visible drainage issues.

Disclaimer